The Journey Begins - Day 1
Our trip to New Zealand began with change. A change in flights, a change in location and with that, a change in attitude. But that’s all part of the glory of travel. The excitement of everything around you moving in ways you don’t expect. It’s an opening for the senses, a dive into the unknown.
Traveling to New Zealand topped our bucket list. For years, we'd heard stories about white sand beaches, rumbling volcanos, plentiful hot springs and glaciers and of course, Milford Sound. Just before we were about to travel to Auckland, however, the North Island experienced a catastrophic flood. With the Auckland area in chaos, we decided to curtail our stay on the North Island and head directly to Christchurch and the South Island where our camper van awaited.
Flying High
We were lucky. Making a stop in Hawaii to visit friends and family, we ere able to bookend our trip with a little rest in the tropics. From Honolulu, we hopped a plane to Auckland Airport. Since we were traveling in February, which is technically the tail end of the summer, we paid just under $1000 each for a round trip ticket. For people traveling from the continental US, we found San Fransisco had the best price and non-stop flight of 14 hours on United. Currently, according to Google Travel the price for a mid-week to mid-week 21 day flight is holding at $1056. Any way you get there, the travel time is worth it.
Our 9 1/2 hour Hawaiian Airlines Flight was long but comfortable. We were fed food and drinks continuously along with movie after movie until reality blurred into fantasy. Our butts were numb from hours of sitting. In the middle of the Van Dam action movie, we landed. It was then we encountered our first snag.
The next part is pretty unique to the food-obsessed, that would be me. I am a gluten-free chef, cookbook author and Italian with specific dietary needs. That means I travel snack-heavy especially since the airlines neglected to carry over my gluten-free meal request. I had a cauliflower pizza, gluten-free crackers and cheese, chocolate, fruits, macadamia nuts, homemade banana bread, pretzels, chips, chocolate covered coffee beans, and more.
But in New Zealand, we heard from the flight attendants that NO FOOD from foreign lands was allowed in. And they were very strict about it. Food hoarders beware! Even a cough drop, a mint, or a piece of forgotten gum was suspect and could result in a $400NZ fine on the spot. Just a note: I have been stopped before for undeclared food when returning from foreign countries. “Is that parmesan cheese in there?” I think by now I’m on some food smuggler list.
That got our attention. So before deplaning, Tim and I started power eating our load of really good foods until we literally felt like the monstrously fat guy in the Monty Python skit in The Meaning of Life…’I couldn’t possibly eat another thing.’ We did our best and threw out the rest and we didn’t get stopped this time.
Then we encountered snag number two. Let’s talk about biodiversity. New Zealand is serious about what is allowed on their islands. So serious that our luggage and consequently we got sprayed with some biologically (supposedly WHO safe) insect spray before leaving the plane. In all our travels, we have never been sprayed from head to toe before but an island has to do what an island has to do. I admire its forethought to protect itself from bugs and critter-infested humans, the original invasive species.
After passing through the fog, we traveled down a long hallway passed brightly lit duty-free shops, airport exchange kiosks, sim card counters, a must-stop shop for cell phone users, and the food and customs inspectors. And then a quick flight to Christchurch where our van awaited and our adventure began. God help us!
See Post: WHAT TO EXPECT AT CUSTOMS
Christchurch and Away We Go- Day 2
Landing at Christchurch airport was like waking up in a dream. Framing the airport baggage claim area stands a large mural sized photo of Mt. Cook which blends into a Living Wall, bringing life to the whole airport. There are more than 2500 plants in the Wall, with 22 different varieties. A pleasant surprise for sure. One that set the stage for our journey into this uniquely natural world.
But when we stepped outside the airport, we could not stop looking up. It truly felt like we are on the bottom of the world, upside down. A world of light clouds drifted in a pale, silvery blue sky. The air was fresh, warmed by the sun yet cooled by a gentle breeze. There were lawns speckled with bean bag chairs, sitting areas for employees and travelers alike. Families spread picnics and kids raced about as if it were a day at the seashore. No one seemed to be in a rush. No frantic exhausted people dashing from place to place. It was as if time slowed down to welcome us and we welcomed it.
Well sort of...waiting for our shuttle to arrive, we stood for over an hour in the beautiful gentle breeze admiring the clapboard houses in the distance. Finally, Moana, our seventy-one-year-old Kiwi driver pulled up in a Tui Camper Shuttle and ushered us into the van as if we were family. We were soon to learn this is simply the Kiwi way.
After at the office, I slapped my own face hard as a fly buzzed in my ear. Chalk it up to being paranoid after reading so much about New Zealand's notorious sandflies. After a quick orientation at the caravan office, we headed off to Kaikoura. That is truly when the fun began. With Tim the pilot, and me, the co-pilot, driving in a foreign country on the wrong side of the road, what could go wrong? Just then the wind picked up and rocked our tall caravan like a young sapling in the breeze. Our conversation suddenly became short and to the point. Tim: ‘Fold that map the right way, look at the map. I’m not going to tell you again!'
Mary: 'WATCH, WATCH, WATCH OUT! 'Tim looked at the scenery and swerved to the left narrowly missing the guardrail on my side. But according to Tim he never swerves and warned me to choose my words more carefully. I had a couple of choice words rolling around in my head. You get the picture.
Important Note: We used Google maps in the planning stage and found that they didn’t make a lot of sense when it comes to New Zealand roads. Driving is better measured in time and not distance since the main roads are all two lane thoroughfares with lots of ups and downs, curves and roundabouts. No wonder Kiwis take their time and live at a slower pace. We bought a flip book of maps, South Island: Complete Drivers Atlas in Motueka at a Paper Plus store after intially traveling with tourists maps for several days. You can pick this book of maps at any Paper Plus store in Christchurch or Nelson.
Kaikoura - Still Day 2
We wove our way through Christchurch suburbs, past small vineyards, and finally to the ocean that looked like Carmel, CA, complete with seals lounging on rock outcroppings. A steady wind tossed us along the narrow two-lane road. Although it was only 180 km or 113 miles away, it took us 4 hours of stressful driving to reach Kaikoura. We chalked it up to beings newbies of left side road driving and roads that curved with roundabouts every few miles. In Kaikoura Bay, the waters ranged from turquoise to a deep blue and were framed by a black sand half-moon beach filled with grey and white stones and sun-bleached driftwood. Dolphins and whales are known to team in these waters. With a sharp drop-off and a depth of 100 feet right offshore, they can get close.
Strolling along the oceanfront street, we looked at several upscale restaurants serving a variety of fresh seafood. We decided to splurge our first night and dined at the Cray Pot on gluten-free Monkfish, green-lipped mussels in a garlic white wine sauce and a bottle of local wine. We sat next to three Brits who were here to hike the famous treks and laughed at their stories about sleeping in the trek huts, three to a bed with one of them being a snorer. No one spoke to him the next day.
For the first night, we decided to stay in town, in a Backpackers Hostel since campsites were a distance from the town, only to find out two things. Anything with the word Backpacker in it should be for the young and brave. Even though we booked a private room, the communal areas were filled with lounging twenty-somethings in all stages of dress, batting at flies. The bathroom was a co-ed inconvenient mess. After seeing many vans and RVs parked in a parking lot in the center of town, right next to a very clean public bathroom, we saw our first example of what is called Freedom Camping. Freedom Camping requires that your van is equipped with a portable toilet, which comes standard with most vehicles, and a windshield sticker verifying it. That’s it. And it’s, well, free. This lot in the center of town was next to a beautiful park with pathways to the beach filled with the sound of ocean waves. A bit better than our dorm-style beds with extra flies and a bathroom filled with co-eds. Live and learn.
See Post: CRACKING THE CAMPING CODE
On the Road to Nelson - Day 3
Driving day 2 was much easier. After leaving the Hostel, we stopped at the local supermarket called New World. (The prices were reasonable and applying for their Club Card ahead allows you to save even more!) They had a large variety of fresh foods and staples and we loaded our groceries into the small refrigerator and stowed away the rest in the dry storage bins. Next, we headed up Hwy 1 which was both deserted and beautiful. We decided after our hectic start, to take our time and stop along the way whenever we liked. Tim spotted a pull-off where 3 sea lions and a pack of NZ leopard seals lounged, sunning themselves on rock outcroppings close to shore. A photo op for sure.
My stop, of course, included food. We pulled into at a small roadside café where we enjoyed two flat whites, a creamy coffee drink and delicious gluten free cakes in a tiny town called Ward. Amazingly the New Zealanders have embraced the gluten free customer and I was able to find dining choices wherever we went. Tim was happy with his photo time and for all who know of my food obsession, I was ecstatic.
Continuing down Hwy 1 to Blenheim and Nelson was a spectacular journey. I didn’t think it could beat yesterday’s vista but this time we followed the stunning NZ coastline past tiny hamlets, hardly large enough for a small café and a petrol station. Clapboard houses with white picket fences show their faces like shy children and the roadside was filled with willowy purple hydrangeas. Choosing this route, counter clockwise around the South Island, allowed us to swim upstream against the tourist current. We often found ourselves alone on the two-lane highway, taking in ocean views that were reminiscent of the shoreline of Northern California. Then the road changed as we turned into the wine country of Marlborough. There were pastural scenes of cows and sheep grazing on lush green hillsides and beehives and grape orchards as far as the eye could see.
We made an unscheduled stop on our journey at Havelock, a small seaside town several streets deep, lined with restaurants, stores and weathered cottages. As we pulled in to the petrol station, we noticed a sign; Havelock: The Mussel Capital of the World. In fact, we learned that Havelock is the center of much of New Zealand’s green-lipped mussel industry. We stopped at the Mussel Pot, a small unobtrusive self-serve restaurant with an outdoor patio facing the marina. They shucked locally farmed fresh mussels to order and served them every way you can imagine with many gluten-free options. We had several orders of steamed green lipped mussels in a cream, white wine garlic sauce and some grilled with garlic butter and parsley. I could have happily stayed there all day but to be true to our schedule we pushed on. We were headed to one of the best national parks in the South Island, Abel Tasman, But first a stay at Tahuna Beach and our first holiday park in Nelson.
Nelson and Tahuna Holiday Park - (Day 3 Con't)
After winding up and over another unexpected mountain pass, (a good map is so important) we arrived back at the sea and the charming town of Nelson. This South Island city faces the Tasman Bay and is known for its local arts and crafts markets and art galleries. We skipped the downtown, tired from another four-hour journey and head to our Holiday Park, a campground, vacation home combo with electrical outlets, clean shower houses, (not co-ed), laundry facilities and communal cooking areas. Grassy knolls, 8 ft apart, with electrical hook-ups and non-potable water make up the majority of the park. We were only staying one night which surprised the leather-faced receptionist at check in. It seems the Kiwis take advantage of their parks and open space and many set up camp for the entire summer.
Tahuna Holiday Park is located on an estuary, the tidal mouth of a large river where the ocean tides meet it twice a day. The inlet fills up at high tide and empties out at low tide. Paths meandered along Tahuna Beach, edging the estuary, ending in the town. In this well-planned rec area, we got a glimpse of how New Zealanders utilized and enjoyed their open space. Bikers, sunset strollers, dogs with their frisbees and fishermen abounded.
In the distance, the beautiful clapboard houses dotted the hills of the city, ready to tumble down to the sea. It reminded me of Sorrento, Italy, my great grandmother’s village. There was something both European and Californian about this city and yet, it was a new world of its own.
We settled in, plugged in our vehicle to enjoy the lights, microwave and to recharge our devices, right in front of the shoreline. Soon we understood that 8 ft was plenty of space in this quiet campground and the hot shower was icing on the cake. We brought our chairs to the beach and drank a bottle of local Marlborough wine, a buttery Chardonnay, clicking our camp cups together and toasting our first successful camping experience.
Totaranui Camp and Abel Tasman National Park - Day 4
We got up early and took another hot shower, just because we could, and headed to what we thought would be a 1.5-hour drive to the north end of Abel Tasman National Park and the Totaranui campground. It turned out to be a 5 hour adventure with a journey up Takaka Hill and a winding dirt road into the campground. A word about Takaka Hill, that’s no hill! It’s actually a mountain pass, 791M/2595ft above sea level with steep and winding road, 257
corners and some 320-degree hairpin turns. It is well maintained and has numerous pull offs for slower vehicles to allow others to pass. In other words, it’s a slow road to drive. That day, the hill was encased in rain and mist so thick, we felt suspended as if our van was floating in the clouds. Finally, we headed down, winding as we went, toward farmlands dotted with painted sheep and a New Zealand hawk leading the way.
Takaka: A True Hippie Enclave
After the ride of Takaka Hill, we descended into the town of Takaka. It seemed that each city and town in New Zealand had its own unique essence and Takaka was truly an authentic throwback to the 60’s. Restaurants like Dangerous Food, Choco Loco, Roots Bar, Wild Earth Eats and The Dragonfly were filled with tourists having fun eating healthy. And there was tie-dye art everywhere. We stopped for breakfast at the Wholemeal Café, a
perfectly neat shiny counter service with a case filled with pastries which included several gluten free options. I had a bacon and egg nest, a crust made of crispy bacon filled with a cooked egg, tomatoes, mushrooms and topped with hollandaise. For the first time, Tim was jealous of my selection as he looked over his giant cinnamon roll. Eat your heart out wheat-eater.
From Takaka, we ventured to two nearby places that our friend suggested and they were totally worth the trip. Just outside of Takaka, Te Waikoropupu Springs, Pupu Springs for short, is truly a mind blowing, spirit altering place. The springs, a sacred site for the Maori, is the largest freshwater springs in New Zealand and the largest cold water springs in the Southern Hemisphere. The moment we stepped from our vehicle, there was magic everywhere. Thanks to the DOC (Department of Conservation), the area is now protected.
The trail began with a display complete with Totems, and stained-glass panels telling the story of the spring goddess Huriawa. We headed along a riverside through a canopy of trees that I can only describe as shimmering with life. The whole area was filled with water spirits and we half expected to meet fairies along the way. After a short hike, we made it to the spring with water so clear the rocks beneath it shown like emeralds and rare stones. The clarity of the spring water allowed for amazing visibility, over 60 meters deep. The gentle vibration of this place rocked us. We felt liquid, flowing and free. At the end of the trail, we met a kiwi woman, waif-like with purple flowers in her hair. She summed it up. “Imagine we are the first people here, the first to the springs. The People,” she said in a singsong voice. We were soon to learn that this was how the elder kiwis talked, in story, in song.
Our next stop was The Mussel Inn, not to be confused with the Mussel Pot. Built in 1992 it remains a local favorite and is as funky as it is friendly. The food fare included fresh
steamed mussels and thick mussel chowder as well as beer, ales and ciders they produce in a brewery on premises. We indulged in another batch of mussels in the garden café and Tim enjoyed a beer . We were more than ready to head north to our next adventure, Totaranui and our first DOC campground.
Totaranui Campground (DOC) and a Kiwi Experience (Day 4 Con't)
Back in Takaka, we headed north for what we thought would be a quick trip. We traveled another hour down a country road until we reached a narrow gravel road and went up, up, up again. It seems like New Zealand roads know no other way. Tim drove a safe 15 km per hour and I hugged the left side, while craning my neck to look over cliffs to inlets far below and coves of deep blue sea.
We finally made it to Totaranui Campground and saw another side of New Zealand camping, the DOC, Department of Conservation campgrounds. Arranged in bays, there were large grassy areas with white sticks that designated camp spots. And that was it. Everyone chose their own stick destination. Couples, families and groups of
friends sprawled filled the perimeter with every kind of rig you could name and a few you couldn’t. Each bay had its own vibration. We chose one that seemed quieter. The campground reminded me of festival grounds complete with rock music blasting in the next bay. Is this a national park? The largest group of natives were the indigenous wekas, the chicken-like flightless birds that moved about in synchronized dance with a grand plan of stealing camp food. We settled in and watched as our neighbors socialized and gathered together. The best part of this DOC haven was the Totaranui Beach, a crescent moon, white sand beach that bordered the entire campground. The water was salty and refreshing and the perfect temperature for a summer swim. The resident stingray’s reflections colored the water a deeper blue and it was just steps from our camper.
Meet the Kiwis- Day 5
After a good night’s rest, we were ready to meet the Kiwis. We had heard so much about their friendliness but until now, had only exchanged a “hello” or “good day”. It seemed to us that the locals like to keep to themselves in their family and friend units. We were wrong again. Grabbing a mug of hot tea, I headed to the beach and watched the sunrise over a steely blue sea. No sooner had I sat on the sand when Alister, a curious leprechaun like character, bounced out in front of me. “Great day! he said. “We are heading to Awaroa, yeah? Then taking the water taxi back. Why not?” Why not indeed. “Which way is that” I asked still trying to get my bearings. He pointed south and off he went.
An hour later, Hen Henderson stopped by our camper as if he was a Walmart greeter. He seemed excited to give us an abridged story of his life. “I’m Hen Henderson. I’m a semiretired veterinarian from Nelson. I’ve been coming here for years with my group of friends. There, there and there,” he pointed at a group of colorful tents. “We raised our keeds together.” Go north he tells us so we pack our lunch and head to our first official trek in New Zealand, Anapei Bay.
Anapei Bay and Little Anapei
There is something so magical about the woodlands in New Zealand that defies description. But I’ll give it my best shot. After crossing a somewhat dry estuary, we headed into a
canopy of trees and started on a trail that was wide and well maintained. The flora was so
much like Hawaii, it was surprising. We hiked along a level trail lined with hapu ferns, palm trees, and draping vines lacing beech tree branches. Cicadas sang so loudly that it was hard to hear each other talk. Then, like Colorado trails, we went up a steady 100M/328ft in elevation. When we reached the top, we were bathed in the green forest light. An strange
calmness enveloped us. We stopped to admire the beauty of the forest that seethed with life, untouched and ancient.
A gentle descending trail took us to Anapei Bay and another crescent moon, white sand beach. Granite walls sheltered the beautiful beach and at the start we were the only ones there. We grabbed a seat on a driftwood log, burying our feet in the sand, and watched as hikers spilled out of the trail with looks of amazement on their faces. Most were taking the big trek to huts on the north end of the park and only stayed for a quick look and a selfie or two. We on the other hand stayed for hours basking in the sun and acknowledging our arrival in paradise.
Ready to explore, we headed to the north end of the beach to a rock cropping that looked like the Easter Island Heads. We meet another Kiwi woman who told us how to get to Little Anapei Bay, a beach in a small inlet just beyond the rocks. “We used to skinny dip there. Go see.” Just then, to our surprise, a penguin popped out of a wave and plopped its little body onto the shore. “That’s a little blue penguin probably ready to molt,” said the kiwi woman. Unfortunately, a French couple ran to the little guy and crowded it, blocking its path to the woods where it needed to rest while molting.
“She’s alone and she’s dying,” the French woman said.
“No, she’s resting,” I said.
“No dying,” they insisted.
I fought back politely, “20ft back please” I said. “She’s probably just tired and scared because you're too close.” And on it went. Another local hiker stated plainly, if she is dying...give her space. The French couple finally relented and sat 20 ft away from the shoreline, still keeping watch.
Through the Easter Island heads, we delighted in the secluded beach of Little Anapei Bay.
Stripping down to our underwear, we dove into the sea like dolphins, spinning, laughing, jumping for joy. Like keeds, we felt young again.
On our return to Totaranui Campground, we were stopped by the estuary which was now a full river with kayaks and canoes sporting people about. That was interesting. How do we get back to the way we came? We began to follow other hikers and found a circuitous road home.
When we finally made it back to the camper, we were greeted with a boisterous hello by our new kiwi friends Alister, Netta, and Kyle. “How was your tramp? How about happy hour at the communal table.” You make old friends quickly in this beautiful land.
Hen Henderson and the Goat - Day 6
Hen stopped by our camp in the early morning, just to check in and talk story. In a few minutes, we covered several world topics and ended with a discussion about families of the heart. “There are all kinds of beautiful places in the world you can live but really it’s about the happiness you create through family and friends and the beauty within.” A common theme among the more mature kiwi population. A world view we couldn’t help but share.
Then off we went on a south track to Goat Bay, another part of the Abel Tasman Great Walk. It was short but steep trek 3.5 miles round trip or as the kiwis call it, return. But don’t believe the signs. Just like the road maps, the trail signs are often confusing, one contradicting the other or just overly optimistic about the length and time a hike takes. After traversing up for scant 2 miles, the trail descended to another half-moon white sand beach. Stunning! Goat Beach is considered one of the most beautiful beaches in all of New Zealand. Not sure why they called it Goat Bay. Not a goat in sight. Striping down to our bathing suits, we lay
on the soft sand as huge waves crashed onto the shore. Tim found a piece of driftwood shaped into a perfect heart which he gave to me. Sweet end to a sweet afternoon.
When we arrived back to camp, the Kiwi convention began in earnest. I passed Kyle’s RV and asked him for a weather report. Since our arrival, the North Island had been hit with some severe weather. A flood, a cyclone, an earthquake and a tornado had blasted the North in the matter of two weeks. Living in a caravan full time required keeping a careful eye on the weather and Kyle was the man to do it. But, as usual on our travels, the weather gods were with us and sunny days were to prevail in the South Island throughout our stay.
Our conversation with Kyle covered more than just one topic. We discovered that Kyle was a “twister”, a balloon man, who had very few places to perform his art. “No Chucky Cheeses here,” he lamented. “No family restaurants at all. People eat at home with their families at the end of the day.” It makes sense. With less money earned and a slower paced lifestyle, New Zealanders live a simple family-oriented life. In addition, in his spare time, Kyle fancy himself a ghost hunter.
Then off to the communal picnic table for our daily happy hour. That’s where we met Kate. Beautiful Kate. A former city councilwoman turned yoga instructor, Kate from Nelson was a gluten free dieter and organic farmer. We instantly fell together, two sisters in the world of food, yoga...twin hearts and minds. We talked like two weka hens about everything from politics to nature, food and family. We fell in love in 2 hours flat. Without hesitation she took us by the hand and became our spirit tour guide of all good places in Golden Bay and the South Island. She wrote us out a guide to the must-see hidden places. A guide we used religiously throughout our stay. It became the guide that never steered us wrong. Finally, rounding out the group were Alister, smiling Nettie and ghost hunter Kyle. In the waning light we exchanged more world views at the picnic table happy hour.
Kate’s Spirit Guide to the South Island
Here are a few places that Kate’s guide took us. Like a fairy tale New Zealand open up and swallowed us whole.
Abel Tasmen Park
Te Waikorpupu Springs: cleanest water in the world
Motueka Valley known for its vertical farms, hops, apples, kiwis and pears
Maruia Springs: a place the Maori revered for its healing waters
Nelson Lake National Park
Murchison a town near the western end of the "Four Rivers Plain”
Punakaiki and the Paproa Track and the Pororari River Tracks
Hokitika: a beachside mining town beckoning back to the 60’s
Lake Mapourika nestled in the Western wetlands
Lake Matheson and the hike around the lake at sunrise for a view of the reflection of
Mt Cook (Aoraki) in the water
Haast Pass: Waterfalls and glacier rivers of every color
Wanaka, Arrowtown and Queenstown
Glenorchy and the start of Routeburn Track, a short hike to the best trek in NZ
Lake Manapouri at Te Anau in the Fiordlands and the start of Kepler Track
Milford Sound
Lake Tekapo and the beautiful night sky
Maruia Hot Springs and Renewal-Day 7
The day began with the familiar pace as we wound our way out of the Totaranui Campground and the northern end of Abel Tasman National Park. This morning, we were able to see more of the charming seaside enclaves and bright blue sea. And then up and over Takaka Hill once again. The sun shone brightly on the hill and we took in the curves in stride. After a brief stop at the Paper Plus Bookstone in Motueka where we purchased a book of maps, we headed through Motueka Valley. The South Island Complete Drivers Atlas is a must purchase. Finally, we were able to see the real scale of our adventures although the length of time to get from place to place although the two lane highway remained a mystery. Motueka Valley was long, meandering road through fields of vertical hops, sheep and cows, and an occasional sleepy town and café. The Motueka River flowed beside us, gently steering us along the road.
We stopped after hours of driving at the town of Murchinson for a flat white coffee out of pure travel fatigue and ended up gaining two young hitchhikers who were tramping along the coastal trails from North to South. They happily road with us as far as the Maruia Hot Springs telling us about the five hours they waited to get a ride with not a lot of traffic heading their way. These young men were so sweet and open faced, eager to share stories about their journey, and the blog that they were writing. I find the kiwis, especially the young, innocent next to our cynical youths. A world with slow or no internet is freeing them from the crazy bad news driven never ending cycle. At Maruia Hot Springs, they grabbed their packs and jumped out. Thanking us profusely, they headed down the road as the wind picked up in earnest. A cyclone had hit the North Island over the last two days and we considered ourselves lucky, once again.
The sulfur waters of Maruia soften our muscles and warmed us up for a dinner at the spa
that was simply gorgeous. No need to ask for gluten free because everything already was!
Tim and I feasted on zucchini parmesan, a raw shredded vegetable salad, braised local lamb in a mint sauce, potatoes and vegetables and poached pears in a yogurt sauce for dessert. After eating our camp food for a week, we felt like royalty!
With Week 1 ending with healing waters, a delicious meal and a good night sleep, we were energized and eager to head out to our next adventure, the Wild West Coast of the south island!
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